DIY Safety
Christmas Light Clips vs Staples: How Pros Actually Hang Lights
The proper way to attach Christmas lights to a roof, fascia, brick, gutter and tree — and why staples and nails ruin houses.
Use plastic clips matched to the surface you're attaching to. Never staples, never nails, never adhesive on porous surfaces. That is the whole answer — the rest of this guide is why, and which clip to use where.
Why staples are always wrong
- They pierce the cable insulation. A staple driven over a cable will eventually cut the outer jacket. Once water gets in, the strand fails — or becomes live to anything it's touching.
- They damage the surface. Wooden fascia, soft brick and render all show staple holes for years. Insurance valuers notice.
- They cannot be removed cleanly. Pulling a staple from a fascia in January takes a chisel and a careful hand — most people don't bother, and the fascia is left peppered with old holes.
Why nails are wrong
The same problem, with larger holes. A nail through a cable is dangerous immediately, not just eventually, and a nail driven into wet wood near a cable will rust into the fascia and stay there for thirty years.
The right tool: clips matched to surface
| Clip type | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gutter clips | Eaves runs, rooflines with guttering | No damage, removable in seconds, secure in wind | Requires a gutter |
| Shingle / tile tabs | Tile rooflines, ridges, gable ends | Invisible from the ground, no damage | Careful insertion needed, not for slate |
| Brick clips | Brick facades, archways, brick-framed windows | Completely non-destructive, removable | Not for stone, render or rendered brick |
| Adhesive clips | UPVC trim, sealed render, painted timber, where nothing else works | Works on smooth sealed surfaces | Leaves residue, fails in cold or wet |
| Magnetic clips | Steel garage doors, metal window frames, railings | Zero damage, repositions instantly | Metal surfaces only |
Spacing and connectors
- Clip every 30cm — tighter on corners, looser on long straight runs.
- Let the cable sit slightly visible between clips; natural drape reads as elegant, board-tight reads as plastic.
- Position connectors between clips, never at a clip — a connector held tight against a clip strains the joint and traps water against the wall.
Removal
A properly clipped installation comes off in an afternoon, leaves no marks, and the clips can be reused for years. A stapled or nailed installation needs a day's work in January, leaves visible damage, and is often abandoned halfway — look up at any street in February and the DIY jobs are obvious.
What we use
- Gutter and shingle clips
- All-Clips brand, for most rooflines
- Brick clips
- For brick facades
- Magnetic clips
- For any metal feature
- Cable ties
- Stainless steel, for tree wrap, clear and removable in spring
- Staples, nails, adhesive on porous surfaces
- Never
Everything we use is removable, reusable and non-destructive — the house looks identical after takedown to before installation.
Questions to ask an installer
- What clips do you use on my type of surface?
- Do you ever use staples or nails?
- What does the house look like after takedown?
Want a clean installation that respects your home? Request a tailored quote →
Related reading
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Where to go next
More on diy safety
- Insurance, Ladders & Safety: Why DIY Christmas Lights Aren't Worth ItThe honest case against climbing your own roof in December — insurance gaps, ladder accidents, electrical risk, and what professional installers carry that you don't.
- Commercial-Grade vs Supermarket Christmas Lights: The Honest DifferenceWhy a £19 box from Tesco fails by mid-December — and what commercial-grade LED systems actually cost, look like and last for.
- Waterproof Outdoor Christmas Lights: IP Ratings, Connectors & British WeatherWhat IP44, IP65 and IP67 actually mean for your Christmas lights, and why the connectors — not the bulbs — are what fail in a wet British December.